The capital of Western Australia, Perth is often described as one of the most isolated cities in the world, but it’s a place very close to my heart. I’ve been a regular visitor there for many years and recently returned from a three-week holiday down under.
As Europe moves into spring, in Australia they are heading into autumn, which definitely means more pleasant weather in Perth than the searing heat of mid-summer. During my visit, the temperature tended to be around the late-20s to early-30s most days – but the lack of humidity means that’s more comfortable than you might imagine.
On this holiday, I was staying in Crawley, just to the west of the city centre and on the edge of Kings Park. Often described as ‘the jewel in the city’s crown’, Kings Park is one of the largest city parks in the world at around 400 hectares. For those of us used to manicured European public spaces it’s a very different experience – with much of the park left as natural bush land.
For me, most days involved at least a brief stroll through the park and I’d highly recommend that any tourists pay it a visit. Take a route which involves the tree top walk and enjoy the views over the city and the Swan River before a coffee stop. Fraser’s restaurant is the obvious destination, but my personal preference is for Zamia café. Just watch out for the birds, who are always keen to steal some breakfast.
In the Channel Islands, we’re used to island-hopping and the Perth equivalent is a visit to Rottnest. The name comes from the Dutch for ‘rats nest’, but don’t be put off by that – the so-called rats are actually a very sweet small marsupial called a quokka, which roam free around the island. We took a ferry from Elizabeth Quay in the city centre and had a very pleasant 90 minutes on the water to get to Rottnest, passing the port city of Fremantle on the way.
Fremantle, or Freo as it’s known to locals, has a very different vibe to the rest of Perth and is definitely a ‘must visit’ when you’re in the city. The influence of decades of European immigration is felt strongly among the cafes that line its so-called cappuccino strip, and I can while away many hours sitting with a cup of coffee and people watching.
I wouldn’t normally recommend a trip to prison while on holiday, but I’d certainly make an exception for Fremantle prison. Built in 1850 and in use until 1991, it is now inscribed on the World Heritage List. On this trip I did the night-time ‘Torchlight Tour’, with a fascinating guide who previously worked as a prison guard there, and the option of underground tour to see the tunnels is definitely on my to do list for a future visit.
After a prison visit, a drink is usually in order – and no visit to Fremantle should be complete without a trip to Little Creatures. From small beginnings, they now export their beer all over the world – and you can even find it on the shelves locally in Waitrose. They offer brewery tours on site, which I have done in the past and are well worth the time, or you can simply enjoy some drinks and food in the sun.
On the subject of sunshine, you can’t be in Perth and not head to the beach. I’d be hard pressed to pick a favourite, but for first time visitors, Cottesloe is an absolute must. During my visit, the annual Sculptures by the Sea exhibition was on, which is a free public art event at Cottesloe beach. I managed to avoid the weekend crowds and had a fascinating few hours wandering around the exhibition.
As always, my time in Perth was over far too quickly and I was back on the plane home – which is admittedly the disadvantage of a trip to Australia. But while a 17-hour flight isn’t easy, I’d argue that it’s certainly worth it. I’m already planning my next visit.
PERTH IN NUMBERS
Population: c.2million
Time zone: GMT+8
Mean max. temperature: 24.6°C
Mean min. temperature: 12.7°
Sunshine average: 8.8 hours per day
MY RECOMMENDATIONS:
Day One: spend the morning in Kings Park, take the tree top walk and admire the view across the Swan River to South Perth. Head to the coast for lunch at either Cottesloe or City Beach before spending the afternoon on the beach and in the water and watch the sun set over the west coast.
Day Two: head down to Fremantle for the day by car, train or ferry. Have a late breakfast on the cappuccino strip before browsing through the shops and galleries. Walk to the prison and take a guided tour. Finish the day sitting in the sun having a drink and a meal at Little Creatures brewery.
Day Three: take the ferry to Rottnest Island and spend the day exploring. Rent a bike and discover some of the smaller beaches before heading to newly built eco-resort, Pinky’s Beach Club, for a meal and a swim.